Certain parts of the Spanish island of Mallorca have long been known for attracting German and British party tourists interested in drinking excessively in the warmer climate. Nowhere else on the island is the past and potential future of the city’s tourism industry as apparent as in the street Pare Bartomeu Salvà — also known to German party tourists as “ham street” or “Schinkenstrasse” in German. Even in the morning, in some bars pop music is already blaring and men in soccer jerseys have already guzzled their first beers. Just a few steps further, things are more dignified. Here, you can sit softly on armchairs upholstered in white fabric. Instead of bratwurst and French fries, here the finest cuisine is served.
Entrepreneur Ferrer wants to see a change in the party tourism reputation of Mallorca
No one wants to see the transformation of Playa de Palma, one of the island’s most important tourist zones, more than Juan Miguel Ferrer, chairman of Palma Beach, a group of entrepreneurs. The organization’s goal is to transform the grubby party zone, known as “Ballermann,” into an upscale destination. It might not be easy — the name “Ballermann” is in fact the combination of two German words: “ballern”— slang for drinking excessively, and “Mann,” a man.”
After making some progress recently, there’s been another setback,” says Ferrer, pointing across the boardwalk toward the beach where dozens of groups of young men loiter in the sun drinking beers. The smell of vomit, urine and sunscreen hangs in the air. Trash cans are overflowing. “In the past few weeks, Playa de Palma has turned into what it was before the pandemic,” says Ferrer.
Mallorca has a number of German-themed bars geared towards party tourists
Business as usual on the Playa de Palma
Last summer, Ferrer saw signs of positive change that surprised him. Few tourists came to the island during the last two years of the pandemic, and when things did open up again, strict regulations imposed by the Spanish health authority on entertainment venues resulted in a different kind of clientele replacing the usual party tourists. Most came from Germany, says Ferrer. “We had actually set a target of 2026 for this change (in clientele),” Ferrer says. “But the pandemic acted as a catalyst and brought us this new customer base last summer.” This year, however, it’s back to square one. “The efforts were in vain. Rowdy tourists are back, and they scare off everyone else.”
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Mallorca, the Germans’ favorite holiday island
Summer vacation does not get better than this
Five hundred kilometers (300 mi) of coastline, sleepy bays like Cala Formentor (photo), warm temperatures until autumn — makes the largest Balearic island a holiday hotspot. Individual travelers, package holiday makers or celebrities — Mallorca offers accommodation in every price range. And you can get there quickly and inexpensively: from Frankfurt the flying time is only two and a half hours.
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Mallorca, the Germans’ favorite holiday island
How it all began
In 1833, a regular ferry service was established between Barcelona and Mallorca. But it was a couple of lovers that made the island a sought-after destination. Writer George Sand and pianist Frédéric Chopin spent the winter of 1838/39 in a monastery in the mountain village of Valldemossa (photo). The novel, which was written there and describes the island, triggered Mallorca’s first tourist boom.
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Mallorca, the Germans’ favorite holiday island
Longing for sun, sea, nature
The first tourists at the beginning of the 20th century mainly came from the Spanish mainland and Great Britain. They sought nature and romance. Mallorca’s beaches are still mostly undeveloped, like those of Calvià and Alcúdia (photo). In 1935 the mild climate already attracted 50,000 tourists, in 1950 there were 100,000 and in 1960 the million mark was broken.
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Mallorca, the Germans’ favorite holiday island
Seaside holiday boom
In the 60s, mass tourism really picked up speed. Huge hotels sprung up along the coast, and pioneers of package tourism such as Neckermann and Dr. Tigges invested diligently. Germans wanted affordable, carefree beach holidays, which is what they got here. The small fishing village El Arenal, twelve kilometers from the island capital Palma, soon become unrecognizable.
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Mallorca, the Germans’ favorite holiday island
The Ballermann party mile
In the early 80s, El Arenal turned into the epicenter for party holidaymakers. In addition to Germans, the British and Scandinavians come here to party till they drop. The “Ballermann 6” turned into the notorious meeting place for German drinking orgies. It’s a Teutonic corruption of “Balnearia,” the name for the beach stalls, which are set up at intervals of 500 meters and numbered from 1 to 15.
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Mallorca, the Germans’ favorite holiday island
Palma: City of culture with beaches
The 400-year-old cathedral is the landmark of the island capital Palma and also its most visited sight. Until the coronavirus crisis, the 400,000 inhabitants struggled with over-tourism, mainly because of cruise ships that docked here and flooded thousands of visitors into the alleys of the old town. In 2019, over 7 million foreign guests stayed overnight on Mallorca.
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Mallorca, the Germans’ favorite holiday island
Almond blossom a natural spectacle
The spring and low season in Mallorca begins with the almond blossom. The first tourists enjoy the still relaxed atmosphere on the island, the picturesque towns and villages in the interior and the varied nature. Over a third of the island is a protected landscape area.
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Mallorca, the Germans’ favorite holiday island
The call of the mountain
Those who love a sporting challenge are drawn to the Tramuntana mountains, which, with several 1000-meter (3280 ft.) peaks, cover the northern and western parts of the island. Mountain bikers can find breathtaking trails — like here at Cap Formentor. Hikers take the long-distance hiking trail GR 221 and racing cyclists the steep serpentines of the mountain passes.
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Mallorca, the Germans’ favorite holiday island
A paradise for water sports
A highlight is to experience Mallorca from the water. Those who cannot afford a yacht can at least enjoy the flair of the romantic fishing ports such as Cala Figuera, Porto Colom or Port Sollér. In former times, via the harbor of Soller, oranges that were grown in the mallorquin mountains were shipped to France.
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Mallorca, the Germans’ favorite holiday island
Finca, an alternative to huge tourist hotels
Those wanting to escape the hustle and bustle of the beaches can rent a finca, a country estate with all the amenities of the inland. Here, relaxation sets in all by itself. No matter whether sun worshippers, party hoppers, people seeking peace and quiet or active holidaymakers — on Mallorca everyone can find their place. After all, four million German holidaymakers a year can’t be wrong.
Mallorca’s politicians, hoteliers and restaurateurs have been trying for a while to put an end to party tourism on Mallorca and to promote the Playa de Palma as a quality tourism destination, not just one for cheap booze and never-ending parties. While the city of Palma has passed various regulations to prevent binge drinking in public — the Balearic government has tightened the law by restricting the sale of alcohol in supermarkets, for example — but that has not proved to be a resounding success. “The police would have to monitor holidaymakers’ compliance,” says Ferrer. “And collect fines immediately in cases of violations.”
Tourist numbers for the summer are expected to exceed those of the pre-pandemic year
Police merely look on
But that’s easier said than done, because the legal situation only allows fines of up to 750 euros (US $788) to be collected on the spot in exceptional cases, a police spokesman explains. After all, few vacationers would carry such a large amount of cash with them. As a result, police on Playa de Palma are essentially limited to watching the goings-on of party-hungry tourists from afar, intervening only in the most extreme circumstances.
In fact, Mallorca is gearing up for a record-breaking tourism season. Whether looking at hotel occupancy, airport arrivals or rental car bookings, the numbers are projected to surpass those of summer 2019. “After two very complicated years, we can now reap the rewards and are at the forefront of international demand,” says Maria Frontera, president of the Mallorcan Hoteliers Association. Andreu Serra, Tourism Director of the island’s council, also expresses his satisfaction: “The start of the season has been very good. The number of tourists is increasing, as well as the amount of money they spend on the island.”
Now, no more than 3 cruise ships can moor at the port of La Palma at the same time
Total number of beds to be decreased
Quantity alone, however, should no longer be the only criteria when it comes to tourism on Mallorca. Many on the island hope for higher quality tourism and visitors who stay longer. Recently, a law was introduced that limits the number of beds in tourist accommodation. “We firmly believe that the economy can grow despite the reduced number of beds by creating greater added value,” says Tourism Minister Iago Negueruela. For example, incentives are already in place for hotels to upgrade and add stars. Slowly but surely, it’s working: There are now more than 400 four- and five-star hotels on the island. Ten years ago, there were half as many.
Yet another decision made in recent weeks is intended to ensure greater sustainability on the island. Mallorca’s capital Palma has become the first Spanish city to limit the number of cruise ships allowed to moor at the same time at its ports, thanks to a deal reached by the Balearic Island’s government and the international cruise line association (CLIA). Previously, there were up to six vessels moored at the same time on certain days. This meant more than 10,000 cruise ship passengers poured in to the old town at once, which resulted in a growing number of protests from residents.
Space is filling up at the beach of Playa de Palma, expected to see high tourist numbers this summer
Hope rests on the US
Industry experts are also focusing on another group of tourists whom they hope to attract in the near future: Americans. For this reason, the island’s decision-makers are pleased that United Airlines is now offering a direct connection between Palma and New York City. They hope the new connection will attract culturally aware and affluent visitors, who will be less interested in getting belligerently drunk in public, as is still the case on the Playa de Palma.
There’s another potential change taking place too. A group of restaurants on the island banned clothes related to what they described as “drunken tourism.” Beachgoers will have to stop for a change of clothes at their hotel before being allowed in to such establishments. Anyone baring their torso or wearing a bathing suit will not be served, nor will anyone wearing a soccer jersey.
This article has been translated from German.
